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During the week, I rode 1 or 2 meters perfect waves, I’m now accommodated at the Thébaults house, a friend from Brittany, he lives there since a few years.
That becomes clearer, even if I spend time to ride on the most beautiful waves of the planet, I’m always so much excited like the first time, when a beautiful session is planned
The spot is quickly chosen, a place off the coast, a reef, they can’t stop to show me picture of this wave, I stamp with impatience, tighten my foot straps every evening, verify my fins…..an existential question…. and if our guru Windguru made a mistake??
Awake at 7 A.M, a little bit late, everyone runs everywhere, a harness here, a board, a bar, a quick check up of the stuff, i don’t want to forget anything. To stay on board watching the others is my worst obsession.
We find all the troop in the Harbor, surfboards, standups, kites, boat, jet-ski, sandwiches, water, stuff, solar cream, lots of equipment for only 7 on board, and certainly 16 boards.
The sun already shines , not a wrinkle comes to disturb its reflection in the water, and if and if!!!
