January 1 - 2009
Live my life in Hawaii
I did a story about my last trip to Hawaii for the website flysurf.com.
To change hemisphere, to flee the cold, to follow its instinct and to migrate towards regions where the life is softer is a privilege than the sufers and the kiteboarders divide with the birds. When one tasted there, it is difficult not to come back you will see.
Jeremie Eloy makes since many years a long stop with Mauï to kite, train and test. Flysurf.com required of him to tell us his stay.
I always dreamed to go to Hawaii, the images that i saw in the media in the Nineties made only poke my desire. Since 2002, with the TEAM North, I went in Oahu to train and test. I also spent three months every year in Maui to train from 2002 until 2006.
The last two years I stayed one month in Maui.
Hawaii is a perpetual amazement, the lights, the colors, the waves, the landscapes (one passes without transition or almost from volcanic with the tropical forest without forgetting the tundra, the meadows with cows, the cowboys.) people, rainbows, the whales, the turtules, the sharks… all is prone to contemplation.
Here a standard day in Hawaii: 7am and alarm clock by all the frogs. I was staying this year at Manu Bouvet and Carine Camboulives from the TEAM Oxbow. They cultivate water lily (the Flower lily which has the characteristic to open the morning and to close itself the evening) and our studio was just over all those flowers.
Small lunched for the menu, papaya, mango, pineapple, cereals, yoghurt’s and coffee. This is for the breakfast at home. Outside there are several places in Paia (old hippies village style) to delocalize the first meal. For example at Anthony’ S with the menu croissants, coffee, brownies, cookies…: You can met all the riders of Maui like Laird Hamilton, Levi Siver (all my the oxbow team in fact)…
Then surfing or stand up. I go to Kanaha to see Cyril Coste, it has just time to have a session of stand up before going to go at Naish at 9 a.m. It is the spot beside kitebeach, a Small smoothy wave, on the reef, a little soft but perfect for the stand up.
Towards 11:12 H, the wind goes up gradually to be established. The moment to take the direction of Paia to eat at Mana food (the mini-market bio of Paia, a legend in the world of the hippies, all is organic, good, and healthy…)Quinoa, greens, chicken, vegetables, and drink.
On the way to Lanes it’s the kitesurf wavespot beside Hookipa, I eat on the hill of Hookipa which dominates the spot, the first windsurfers are going out… there is often beautiful show.
Ready I go down to the spot of Lanes on other side from the hill.
The launch is prettu sketchy (irregular wind, reef, sea urchins, and of course cutting coral, I have the feet and the back well lacerated by this spot)
But it is the price, after, 2 or 3 hours, I’m full:
In Mauï, I use my pro model at North Bullet 5 ‘ 7, and the rebels 2009 in 12,9 and 7 in 25 meters of line.
This year, I was kiting with my 9 usually, once I did a mistake, to take 7 but here you don’t come back to change or to tighten a footstrap, the exit is to sketchy, when you leaves and you come back it is for good.
Ken winner (the designer from North) was here 3 weeks ago and with Charles Deleau (who was here also) we tested very successful protos 9 and 14. Ken has a very particular technique to catch his kite, he attaches the chiken loop to a tree, the wing remains in edge of window and he catch it. What else?
Sylvain Cazenave came on Maui after Triple crown in Oahu, it benefited from it to shoot some stand up with Manu, Carine, Lou and Lulu, windsurfing, Laird… and kitesurfing at Lanes. we had the best day of the stay to shoot some images, sun, bathing suit, whales and 2m of waves.
The day finishes on several options:
– To go to lie down with a good dish of pastas, surgery of the feet, watching the pics of the day, and planning of the following day fish, whales or turtles?
– To go to Jacques to Paia (Friday evening) it is a restaurant, sushi bar held by French who makes bar disco after 10 p.m., all the family of the kitesurf, the windsurf and all the French find themselves here.
– To go downtown, country of the American shopping malls, to eat hamburgers of the maximum Coke, temple of overconsumption. An example: even if all is very clean, it is crazy the number of plastic which they use in the supermarkets here, of the chains as Wall Mart put three articles in a bag. I however thought, that in a place like Hawaii, populated Whales and turtules victims of the plastic bags, they would feel more concerned.
– To invite his/her girlfriend on other side of the island at Sansei a Japanese restaurant, one of the best restaurant of suchi and fish in the world.
This week between the sessions of kite and surfing we went:
– to see the whales with Pacific Whale Foundation, for 35 dollars they take you along in boat with scientists to observe the whales,
-To the water fall like the Twin Falls, two large cascades you can swim and jump in it.
– At the top of the Haleakala volcano at 4am, planned on windguru, this year at 3000 meters it was the storm (there is sometimes snow here) thanks windguru
– To swim with fish in a split meadows of la perouse Bay (it is a place covered with lava) you will find an incredible aquarium, in 70 cm of water there are fish of all the colors.
In short difficult to be bored here, there are always some things to make, in the sea on ground or the airs.
Warning Hawaii it is not whole rest, with a planning two hours of surfing the morning, two visiting times (waterfalls) three hours of kite, a good evening in Jacques and you sleep like never.
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